An Amethyst Ruby Ring by Paolo Costagli

An 18k white gold ruby ring set with accenting prongs in yellow gold; 1.46 carats of rubies, 4.75 carats of amethyst and .17 carats if pave set diamonds along the band – that’s what the exclusive Paolo Costagli creation offers when it comes to materials, the gold as the metal, the ruby and amethyst as the gemstones. Yet, when it comes to romance, elegance or a way for a man to say I love you to a lady or for a woman to say “I love myself”, the precious materials give way to the designers ability to capture light with contrasting colors, to bring life and vibrancy to the hands of a woman using gems as icons of eternal youth.

Paolo Costagli is a designer of fine jewelry – categorize him if you must as modern and geometric; certainly not your average creator of solitaire or cluster gemstone engagement rings and wedding bands. The ruby engagement rings and other gemstone jewelry pieces in the collections offer not just an alternative to diamonds or traditional gemstone settings, but proffer a means to proclaim statements of individuality and contemporary elegance without uttering a word.

Perhaps the unique design elements reflected in his pieces stem from the fact that Costagli is a Florentine -Venetian, touched since birth by architecture and surrounded by the art of masters. Yet while an artists, jeweler, sculptor, painter….may receive inspiration from his/her origins of birth, from surroundings, from buildings, from sculpture, from scenery and natural color, in the end it is how the designer interprets such inspiration and gives it back to the world that really counts. In the case of the gemstone jewelry collections by Paolo Costagli, the rich passionate colors of Italian tapestries, paintings and architectural forms have been transformed into clean colorful shapes that are not only natural and wearable, but works of art that are alive, breathing, moving, filled with light and verve.

The journey from Florence to retailing through stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus and displaying his gemstone artistry in the Crown Building, took a turn along the way through the Colombian emerald mines. It was perhaps dealing in emeralds that eventually brought him a step closer to his own boutique where emeralds, diamonds, rubies, sapphires and peridots (amongst other gems) paved the way to his ultimate success.

Now, selling his creations even at auction houses like Christies and Sotheby’s is nothing new. But what defines his pieces is not only the high quality, carefully selected gemstones themselves, but the unusual combinations of color, which although crafted in a workshop in midtown, are entirely supervised by the master himself. Paolo Costagli’s vibrant choice of color blends distinguishes him from not only other jewelers and designers, but places him in the world of contemporary artists, where those who have a discerning eye take note, and those who can afford buy.

When sipping champagne cocktails with the who’s who of the Upper East Side society, Costagli has the smile of one who has a sense of pride in offering the world items that are unmatched. But the essence of his style is in fact simplicity. Let’s take a second look at the ruby ring that we’re featuring, a piece so unusual and so full of contrast, yet so simple.

The emerald cut amethyst is translucent and virtually flawless, 4.75 carats of purple-violet light and color, flanked by two red rubies, also emerald cut, weighing 1.46 carats. The golden prongs separate the gems and hold them like a sculpture above the pedestal base, which in this case in the band, a totally different creation in white metal with translucent diamonds. Two creations – one ring.

While most jewelry artists wouldn’t dare to risk placing the best rubies with anything other than more rubies or diamonds, Costagli boldly brings red and purple together, and then adds yet another faux pas by mixing metals, not in a fluid blending of yellow and white gold in a two-tone band, but totally separating the two and then placing them side by side, or as the case may be, one atop the other. A statement of strength. Not only does he do this with amethyst and ruby, but also with peridot and pink sapphires, green tourmaline and amethyst, pink spinal and tourmaline, coral and yellow diamonds and other contrasting gems and metals which include white and yellow gold and platinum.

Genuine ruby rings with the Costagli exquisite craftsmanship are no accident. His personal journey around the world, his gemologist trained eye, his years of developing a unique style for exclusive clients , and his strict quest for only the most excellent quality stones has allowed him the luxury of showing his collections by appointment only to those who can afford to buy from his Fifth Avenue salon. And how much do his creations cost?

The ruby ring we’ve featured is available through Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman’s for about $4,800, but a larger version is also available from his own showroom online, for double the price. However the amethyst is over 6 carats. The yellow and white gold ruby ring is not alone. It has matching earrings. In fact two different styles, one long and dangling with interspersed rubies and amethysts set in yellow gold, and another small drop style with diamonds, rubies and amethyst is a more subtle blend of busting color, although nothing about Costagli is really very subtle. If you missed your chance to enter the Costagli collection launch contest, and didn’t win the 18kt gold amethyst and ruby earrings, then you can buy them for a reasonable price, just $1, 850 from Costagli, Neiman Marcus or Bergdorf Goodman.


In late 2009, Paolo Costagli introduced the Bridal Collection with engagement rings unlike most others on the market. His intention was to offer something vibrant, none-traditional, full of youthful color and brilliance beyond just diamonds and gold. The contemporary collection is indeed colorful, although he has not mixed gems in the rings themselves, at least not in the same intensely colorful way he has with none-bridal collections.

For more information on ruby rings, such as antique and discount styles, as well as how to get deals on genuine ruby rings in sterling silver and gold settings, please see related posts.

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